tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-103621032024-03-14T10:18:33.724+08:00飛一般點滴我常常想着为什么我看不见午后时分在市中心经过的飞碟。是不是生活的节奏被这城市这资本社会所牵引而淡化了我心中最想感受的事情?譬如一次大红花瓣的颤动。一个夕阳剪出的大树影子。一朵即将在午后长大并下雨的积云。foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.comBlogger800125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-58475527761334828622018-07-03T23:02:00.000+08:002018-10-06T23:04:21.840+08:00蘇州印象 - 同里古城 - 花間堂<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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從蘇州去同里古城有N種路線,我們省時省事,叫出租車直接來到蘇州的飯店門口接、送我們到同里古城入口。從出租車上搬下沈重的行李箱和背包,再把小孩掛在身上,接下來我們要用走的。古城的石板路似乎理所當然,倔強的抗拒現代設計帶有順滑輪子的行李箱。我拖得好辛苦,半路攔截一輛川行古城的三輪車。可是踩三輪車的是頭髮灰白的老伯,我們一家三口和兩口沈重行李大概150公斤貌似不好啃的負重。老伯一口價10塊錢送我們到飯店門口,我滿口應承。好不容易把行李搬上狹窄的三輪車,再安頓好小孩,準備鬆一口氣時,又覺老人家踩著三輪車太費力,頻頻探問老人家是否吃力。老人家也沒搭話,他踩的很吃力,但車子穩穩移動,路旁還有很多稍息著的三輪車和三輪車後面的車主都是差不多年紀的老人家們,他們和古城一半理所當然。其實飯店很近,轉了一個街角就到。當然如果是用走的那距離還是難受,所以我車資我付了15塊,說老伯您辛苦了。他很開心,馬上掏出他的名片,說如果想漫遊古城可以打電話讓他來載,童叟無欺不二價。我笑笑,轉過頭去迫不及待想進去飯店的房間休息。那是花間堂,此行最喜歡的住宿。雖然做了很多功課已經心裡有數的一家飯店;可是實際來到,身在古城又待在這麼一個有故事的建築物裡,那些限制在想像裡的期待紛紛落後。我後來不甘躲在房間休息,外出拍了很多照片。而所有的照片都無法表達那個下午我徜徉花間堂看到的那種氛圍,優雅、謐靜、樸素但似乎煥發著希望般的踏實色澤。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com0Tonglizhen, Wujiang, Suzhou, Jiangsu, China31.14889599999999 120.722694999999935.62686149999999 79.414100999999931 56.67093049999999 162.03128899999993tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-63902947246214412202018-04-20T22:06:00.000+08:002018-04-20T22:06:09.152+08:00他目前是個動詞我家小孩愛玩的程度像一個非典型物理的永動機,睡覺是為了補充能源。某個早晨我親眼目睹他自睡眠裡甦醒,張開眼睛後爬起身來就跑去靠牆的空氣淨化器把玩其按鈕。彷彿昨夜的睡眠是一場空,唱機裡傳出的交響曲接著轉入弦樂部分,他的時空裡不曾有過暫停,一切照舊。在他跑出房間去客廳翻找平時讀慣的繪本之前,我仔細觀看他的眼睛,找不到絲毫剛睡醒的迷糊。也許只有凌亂的頭髮稍微透露一些睡覺的線索,他充電完畢似的風風火火在小小的公寓空間重複奔波,拆卸同樣的玩具,捧著同樣的繪本來找我念給他聽,再重複爬上茶几伸手去拔開花瓶裡插著,前天自茨廠街花店買回來的非洲菊花瓣。然後被媽媽責罵,再認真的大哭一陣子。停下來後就坐不住了,或爬上沙發,或打開櫥櫃的門把裏頭的東西拿出來梳理一遍,一直到下一次入睡的時候。<br />
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根據這一年來(小孩一歲四個月了)的隨機觀察,我做出這麼一個結論:我家小孩如果是一首詩的話,他目前是個動詞。foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-12725807258549732182015-06-29T17:37:00.004+08:002015-06-30T10:15:31.876+08:00那裡有一個江湖<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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最近一期的<a href="http://www.bloomberg.com/company/announcements/bloomberg-businessweek-releases-code-issue-special-multi-platform-package-demystifying-code/" target="_blank">Bloomberg Businessweek</a> 很特別。 簡約的封面白底黑字寫了幾行文字,單獨看來是一些英文字母和符號,組合起來卻成為有些怪異的英文句子,而且毫無章法,處於大概弄得懂和不知所謂之間。<br />
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其實那是某種叫做Python的電腦程式語言,這一段程式會讓電腦熒幕出現一句話:<br />
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This is the June 15,2015, issue of Bloomberg Businessweek. It's 112 pages long and costs $5.99. It's about code.<br />
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是的,這一期的bloomberg Businessweek除了廣告,只刊登了一篇文章。這篇文章大概90頁,38000個字,專注說一件事:電腦編程。 因為編輯們覺得電腦編程無處不在卻又無人在乎是一件很不可思議的事情。假設有一個謎題:什麼東西是看不到摸不到,可是人類依賴著它過活?以前的唯一答案是空氣,現在也許可以添上電腦編程。所有大大小小的電腦,不管是遠在天邊近在眼前的所謂雲端,還是口袋裡的手機,甚至是戴在身上的手錶(Pebble watch, apple watch)眼鏡(google glass),電腦編程是附身其上的靈魂。如果以前我們把它和空氣一般看待,理所當然的享受它帶來的便利,再唉聲嘆氣抱怨因它而起的弊端。現在我們何不低頭好好認識電腦編程是什麼?<br />
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電腦編程自成一江湖,有自己的規矩、英雄、武林大會和武功秘笈,固有幫派之爭,也有如華山派劍宗和氣宗的修煉法門之爭。這篇大塊頭的文章可謂武林入門秘笈,告訴我們電腦編程這塊江湖是什麼,做什麼,有什麼,為什麼。行文幽默風趣,淺白的描述電腦編程世界裡的技術概念。不管是不是想要明白電腦編程的讀者,大可抱著增廣見聞的心態來讀讀,說不定會和我一樣碰上一些忍俊不住或拍案叫絕的地方。譬如文章裡解釋Compiler (編譯器)時寫道:<br />
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<i>"You can write elegant, high-level code like F. Scott Fitzgerald, and the computer will compile you into Ernest Hemingway. But compilers often do several passes, turning code into simpler code, then simpler code still, from Fitzgerald, to Hemingway, to Stephen King, to Stephenie Meyer, all the way down to Dan Brown, each phase getting less readable and more repetitive as you go."</i><br />
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文章的結構也甚巧妙,從一個着灰褐色西裝外套的男子(他是負責編程的)和公司高層(他負責企劃案開支)的交談開始,企劃批准,進展、遇上問題、計劃延遲,一直到最後計劃完成。間中穿插編程世界裡的種種概念和知識,相互印證,讀起來趣味盎然。作者用一個購物網站的誕生過程切入現代電腦編程工作的流程,偶爾打岔說說編程語言的各門各派,談談軟件工程的發展和流派,以及最重要的,以編程為職業的人。這些成為電腦編程師的人們,在我們認知的世界以外,他們也說著另一套語言,信奉另一種信仰,追隨另一些偶像。進入那樣的世界以前,讓我們向他們打個招呼,Hello World。<br />
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(1978 年,Ritche 和 Brian Kernighan寫了《The C Programming Language》<the c="" language="" programming="">,經典的武林秘笈。"Hello World!"是秘笈裡的第一個範例,從此成為後來任何一個電腦編程語言約定俗成的第一個範例。)</the><br />
<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-43753570253381745242015-06-15T09:27:00.000+08:002015-06-15T09:27:00.127+08:00我讀科學驚悚小說我愛看科幻式的驚悚小說,情節必須推理。謎面層層鋪展,不能太艱深也不能太容易。最好是到最後謎底揭開時會帶來恍然大悟之感,揣摩之下又覺得自己早該想到,不管了又一頭栽進小說世界。<br />
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早前買了一本瑞典的翻譯小說《反轉四進制》就是如此類型,它有點像 michael crichton的小說(michael crichton是科幻驚悚小說的宗師級作家,寫出《侏羅紀公園》、《奈米獵殺》等等融和科幻和驚悚的故事),卻沒有michael crichton那麼多理論,少了一些增長知識的副樂趣,多了一些閱讀的輕鬆感。<br />
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也有推理小說的解謎樂趣,讓讀者知道有什麼大事件正待發生,隨著情節拋出一個又一個的暗示,卻不說清楚什麼事情。最後的謎底頗有幽默感,有點腦筋急轉彎的意味,但絕非胡鬧。可惜故事的結尾沒有啓發性,預言、宿命和自由意志的三角關係始終是無法跨越的套路。<br />
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比起《大斷電》,這部小說顯然不那麼貼近日常,所以代入感也比較薄弱。《大斷電》的驚悚感更令人印象深刻,因為書裡頭描繪的停電災難隨時就能夠在我們周邊發生。話雖如此,《反轉四進制裡》的疫病災難卻剛巧對應目前韓國的 MERS 疫病,可見這類災難其實離日常不遠。而另一本同類型的小說《極限》裡描述的災難就更遠了,因為災難建立在預言的科技上,太空電梯,月球基地,替代能源。比起他(Frank Schätzing,法蘭克.薛慶)讓大家驚艷的《群》,此書的大塊頭顯得累贅,過猶不及啊。<br />
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回到這部《反轉四進制》,能夠讓我一氣呵成讀完,印象中只有去年高野和明的《種族滅絕》。同樣是科技驚悚,讀起來同樣緊張刺激。不過種族滅絕的深度多一些,裡頭那些社會倫理和價值觀的衝突,凸顯人性之複雜,也開拓了另一番視野。我更喜歡這部小說的結局。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-42863746834402842052015-06-12T09:21:00.000+08:002015-06-12T09:22:58.426+08:00閱讀筆記《反轉四進制》<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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故事開頭挺戲劇化,一位自軍方退休的密碼專家無意面對日益破碎的人生,在家裡浴室吞藥自殺,可是被前妻救活。住院期間突然失踪,家裡的衣物用品也一併消失。前妻堅認他是被拐帶的,鍥而不捨追查。看起來他們深愛對方,為什麼分開呢?<br />
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另一邊廂,密碼專家真的是被拐帶了。他被帶到一個巨大的城堡裡,辦公室佈置得如自家書房,所有物品都是從他家帶過去的。牆上全是密碼和解密後的序列,他的任務是找出解密的金鑰匙。城堡裡的人告訴他那是非常重要的工作,攸關很多人的性命。儘管他不甘就範,想要弄清楚一切。可是解密是他本能是他人生的憑據,尤其是如此艱深的密碼。他發現密碼是四進制,可他百思不解為什麼要四進制。他從資料裡發覺在他之前已經有人嘗試解出金鑰匙了,顯然那個金鑰匙不對,他才被拐來接替。直到有一天他企圖逃走時在某個角落遇到一位同樣被拐來的女子,他們慌不擇路來到一間類似醫院病房的地方,裡頭的重重隔離間充滿看起來快死的病人。來不及深究,他們被捉回去。分別前女子只來得及對他說四個字,ACTG。於是他撿起這塊關鍵拼圖,把整件事情的脈絡梳理個大概。城堡裡的人也不再隱瞞,把事情說明白,卻是個比他所想到還要震撼的真相。<br />
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人類體內有 DNA,定義了每一個人的樣子和健康狀況。自從2003年人類成功解碼DNA以來,大概有9%的DNA序列被搞清楚功用,那幾乎是人類生命功能的大部份。剩下的91%DNA序列依舊是一個謎,有人甚至懷疑那91%屬於垃圾DNA。於是故事從這裡開始,有人釐清了那91%DNA的功用,竟然是一連串的註釋。註釋解讀後是預言,裏頭涵蓋了人類歷史上發生過的大事,以及將會發生的大事。更甚的是,將會發生的大事記錄在DNA最尾段,過後就沒有任何預言了。這意味世界末日,而城堡裡的人在對抗這個世界末日的預言。對抗的方式也很簡單:如果人類的那91%的DNA是勢必發生的預言,如果預言無法迴避,那麼他們就自己動手改寫人類的DNA,即改寫預言。這樣子就能夠避開原本預言裡發生的世界末日。密碼專家身負的巨大任務就是把預言“翻譯”成DNA的序列,然後再由生物科技專家製造新品種病毒,讓病毒能夠把新的DNA植入人體。那種新病毒必須俱有高度傳染性,這樣子才能夠把新的DNA快速植入全世界的人類。這樣才能改寫預言。<br />
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事情當然不會順利,之前的密碼專家翻譯錯誤,城堡製造出的新品種病毒只帶來死亡,而且無藥可救。病毒流傳出去,快速蔓延到整個世界。人類社會陷入恐慌,世界末日將至。看來一切都將徒勞無功,即使密碼專家能夠找出金鑰匙,把人類美好未來到預言編入DNA密碼,恐怕地球上也沒剩下多少人能夠被“改寫”命運了。<br />
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故事結局沒這麼悲觀,後來又有了出人意表的發現,世界末日顯得一廂情願。芸芸地球生命裡人類的DNA只是短短的一篇。正如圖書館裡書名人類的這本書不過是書海裡的其中一本。這個故事最精彩的地方正是這種近乎諷刺的幽默。戰戰兢兢準備了幾十年,預言裡最害怕的末日竟是因此而製造出來的。更無奈的是,所謂末日不過是一場誤會。一開始就錯了。<br />
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還好故事一開始是吸引的,雖然結局流於一般,故事的核心思想還是善意積極的。算是近期我看過最好的科技驚悚小說。foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-3459826196979279332015-06-02T22:01:00.000+08:002015-06-02T22:03:21.731+08:00在路上的數學第一份工作在Subang USJ,我需要搭輕快鐵到終點站,轉乘接駁巴士到Subang Parade,再等一趟公車才能抵達辦公室。消耗時光總數大約1小時45分鐘,一天往返則3小時半。那時我在路上看書和聽歌。<br />
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第二份工作在Bukit Jalil,我需要搭兩趟輕快鐵,再步行15分鐘。消耗時光總數1小時15分鐘,一天往返2小時半。依舊在路上看書聽歌,偶爾還寫詩。<br />
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第三份工作在Mid Valley,搭一趟輕快鐵,再轉乘接駁巴士或電動火車。消耗時光總數1小時,一天往返2小時。在路上依舊看書聽歌,偶爾看人。有時候運氣不好電動火車等了1個小時,帶在身上的書本看完後無所事事,會一邊怨氣這個政府這座城市一邊啃咬就近買到的餅乾或麵包充饑。<br />
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目前工作在一趟輕快鐵就能夠抵達的地方,消耗時光總數35分鐘,一天往返1小時10分鐘。在路上往往看不完一個篇章的書,或聽完一首交響樂曲。有時乾脆不看書,拿出褲袋裡的手機指指點點,一晃神就到站了。<br />
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多年來累積了大約7000個小時在上下班的路上,十多年的上班生涯裡頭幾乎就花了一年的時間搭車。這樣回顧起來有點唏噓,時光匆匆跟不上輕快鐵的速度。不過仔細想想又慶幸不已,至少不是耗費了一年時間塞車。foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-21751788891103348612015-05-30T19:01:00.000+08:002015-05-30T19:02:51.567+08:00閱讀筆記《聖母峰之死》<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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若干年前去過臺灣爬雪山。出發的飛行途中讀了臺灣登山家高銘和攀爬聖母峰的書,《九死一生》。書裡娓娓敘述高銘和如何組織臺灣的聖母峰遠征隊,如何訓練隊員,遠征聖母峰期間有隊友在登頂前意外逝世,最後只剩下高銘和一人和兩位嚮導攻頂。攻頂後大伙兒要回去營地卻遇上暴風雪,高銘和走不動了。兩位嚮導各自求生,一直等到第二天早上才回去援救高銘和。九死一生的這一生大概是說高銘和奇蹟般的在暴風雪和低溫裡熬過來,失去了手指、腳趾、鼻子,撿回一條命。<br />
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尤有甚者,那場暴風雪還造成了聖母峰有史以來最嚴重的山難(一直到2014年的雪崩山難和2015年尼泊爾地震後的基地雪崩),死了8人,其中有名震四方的美國登山家Scott Fischer和紐西蘭登山家Rob Hall。Rob Hall是Adventures Consultants 遠征隊隊長,他的隊伍裡有8名客戶,各自付了價格不菲的團費,期待Rob能夠把他們帶領到世界最高峰。其中一名客戶是Jon Krakauer,他是 Outdoor運動雜誌的記者,那次隨團也肩負著報導商業遠征隊的攻頂事項。<br />
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災難後Krakauer以幸存者的身份寫了《聖母峰之死》(Into Thin Air),書裡詳細記述了遠征隊攻頂的經過以及災難發生的細節。其中多有歸咎其他登山者之處,包括指責高銘和在隊員意外身亡後依然堅持攻頂,以及另一商業遠征隊的嚮導見死不救。此書後來引起眾多爭議,高銘和以及被指責見死不救的嚮導都不甘被抹黑,各有說法,嚮導後來也寫了一本書《<span style="background-color: white; color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 12.6000003814697px; line-height: 20.1599998474121px;">The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest</span>》來反駁Krakauer。<br />
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我倒是覺得這些爭議無損此書在報導商業化登山方面的價值,作者把山難歸咎于商業團把沒受過8000公尺以上登山訓練的客人勉強帶去攻頂則見仁見智。不過聖母峰登頂這件事情確實成了一門生意,彷彿付得起錢就有機會登頂。聖母峰不再是登山家引以為豪的征服,聖母峰已死。這樣說其實有嘩眾之疑,畢竟把自己弄到8000多公尺高多地方,冷到結冰不說,還有高山症、缺氧等等折磨身心的苦難,花錢買罪受麼?於是這回到最初的問題,人為甚麼要登山?有人給過一個挺有意思的答案。“因為山在那裏”。如果要問我甚麼讀這本書的話,我不會說因為書擺在書局的當眼處。我想我會說因為我沒想過用自己的瘦弱身子去爬聖母峰,可是我想透過登山者的經歷去體會對山的敬畏,想透過那些發生過的災難來警惕自己對生活的安逸。<br />
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至於同一場災難有好幾本不同說法的書,我們大可延伸閱讀,透過不同的眼睛看見不同的風景,也透過不同的心靈感受不同的顫抖。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-59735946710828255032015-01-05T15:46:00.002+08:002015-01-05T15:48:17.610+08:00心有罣礙<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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星期一難得放假。<br />
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寫意早起,沒有趕著出門上班的匆匆心情。到公寓花園的空地練習一遍久違的太極拳,發現很多單腳站立的招式都使不出,總是無法維持身體的平衡。練功這回事最實在,不進則退。持之以恆是基本,百尺竿頭則是精進。想著想著更加練不好,總覺得身體僵硬,姿勢不流暢。大概是心有罣礙,意識到自己的身體僵硬姿勢不流暢這件事本身就是罣礙。前陣子讀南懷謹的《太極拳與靜坐》,有一篇印象特別深刻。大師說學太極要“五空”,第一要心空,思想要空,心空自然,體內生理機能就自然發動。我這般心裏記掛著自己的姿勢不對,練來亦是勉強。於是打了一遍稍微流汗後就停止。練功不能急,如果能夠持之以恆,終將有成。甚至連成不成的念頭都別放在心裏。好好做一件事,別只顧著看到事情的結果,而是用心體會過程的每一個點滴。庖丁解牛是如此,讓人稱羨的日本職人精神是如此,生活亦是如此。<br />
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譬如說去上班的過程,稍微放下一心想到達公司的急切心情,開車塞在長長車龍裏的時候該如何體會?心裏可不可以放空?我想起2014年上半年裏每一天都要搭輕快鐵,然後轉乘巴士才能夠抵達公司的日子。單程一個小時半裏自己也沒法做到放空,總要捧著一本書一頭栽進書裡的另一個世界。不然就是聽音樂,一首交響曲或協奏曲40多分鐘,剛好是一趟輕快鐵的路程。如果換成開車,我還沒想到自己要怎麼度過那長長的路程。看書是沒辦法了,也許只有聽音樂,也許可以繼續學習放空。或者換個想法,為甚麼要開長長的車程去上班?換個工作,換個居住的地方,換一種新的距離。放空目前習以為常的生活點滴,回到最初的地方去想一想,自己的心裏到底罣礙著什麼,或者不罣礙著什麼。foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-82033417779033884972014-08-25T20:55:00.000+08:002014-08-25T20:56:53.109+08:00山中茶原<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Janda Baik 是個寧靜悠閒的小村莊,從吉隆坡開車大約一小時可至,與bukit tinggi 毗鄰。近來我幾乎每個週末都去,先在bukit tinggi的榴蓮檔口大快朵頤頂級的貓山王榴櫣,再去janda baik的山中茶原喝喝茶吃些東西,消磨週末緩慢步伐的時光。山中茶原其實是紫藤餐廳的分號,因為村莊在山裡而有名山中茶原。這家紫藤的菜單不一樣,選擇較少,但菜色特別,運用當地生產的蔬菜水果創作各式各樣的菜色,頗有實驗性廚房之風格。<br />
去了幾次都吃不同的東西,也許談不上驚豔,但舒服和滿意的心情卻不曾缺席。最愛的還是餐廳周圍但風景,甚至是餐廳本身的所在。即使室外豔陽高照,坐在餐廳內品茶依舊可以心涼如水。有時三兩好友結伴同至,有時二人牽手慢步,也不用說太多話語。聞一聞凍頂烏龍的淡淡香氣,一口清香伴幾頁書卷,微風拂過,週末時光輕輕掀起了裙角。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-58453473063259582832014-08-25T09:47:00.001+08:002014-08-25T09:47:50.580+08:00最奢侈的週末<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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對bukit tinggi的法國村是聞名已久,但我對人工仿造的景緻素無興趣,所以也沒想過上山一遊。週末因緣際會,在山上法國村隔鄰的the Chateau飯店過了一夜。也順路去法國村散步,找家餐廳吃個午餐。一圈下來,法國村的景觀再怎麼和法國colmar小鎮相似,裡頭的餐廳和店鋪卻不搭配。電動遊戲場,街道上的舞台有定時歌唱舞蹈表演,售賣毫無特色的紀念品商店,整個法國村大概是個讓遊客們來拍照的佈景。<br />
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還好Chateau飯店本身就值得一個週末了。飯店也是仿法國建築,有個大廣場,樓房設計,走廊,餐廳,酒吧和泳池各有特色。而且飯店員工服務周到,周圍環境清幽。在飯店範圍裡散步,隨意找個地方坐下。聊天或看小說。星期日早晨吃久久的早餐,閱報。對我而言,最奢侈的週末是能夠悠閒揮霍時間,並覺得很充實好像完成了某種里程碑,滿足的回家。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-82503361556749309312014-05-18T12:50:00.002+08:002014-05-18T12:59:02.400+08:00馬六甲方圓幾條街日前安排了一個小旅行,三天兩夜的時間幅度出乎意料適合在馬六甲逛街購物喝咖啡,離開時還意猶未盡,頗有滿載而歸的確幸感。自從馬六甲被列入聯合國世界遺產地之後我這回是第一次踏足馬六甲,之前聽聞週末時此城遊客洶湧,塞車人潮連吃個午餐都要排隊;又聞歷史悠久地古董街早已面目全非,充斥著千篇一律的旅遊紀念品。也許所有古城都這般糾結,豐厚的舊時光是一種旅遊資源漸漸被消費,真的歷史被破壞掉,新仿造出來好看卻虛有其表。遊客來去匆匆,他們是過客到此一遊,拍一拍照片不帶走任何牽掛。在地人目睹變質的街景和文化,歷盡新舊面貌的冷暖,有人歡喜有人愁。多年後到訪古城,我不懂歷史不遊景點,只看現在自己的眼光會被吸引的東西。如果有機緣建立感情的,那是旅遊之可貴。再不然這次旅遊貴在和伴侶相處的時光,古城不過一幅背景,是一個多年以後我們清洗掛在露台的風鈴時記起這次小旅行時從口中冒出的名字。<br />
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馬六甲住宿選擇很多,我們選擇一家臨近河邊的客棧。馬六甲典型的窄長型舊屋子,兩個天井,屋子後面靠河的房間最好,坐在露台外的椅子喝茶吃甜點,俯視馬六甲河水,遠望建於1840年的St Francis Xavier 教堂,古城氣息彌漫。這家客棧 Wayfarer Guest House 的房間都在二、三樓。樓下是公共空間,有廚房、吧台、沙發區、用餐區。最吸引的是一個木板吊床,躺在上頭搖搖晃晃就一個無所事事的午後了。房間裏的傢俱都是古董,除了因為我們現代人的舒適而加入的床褥、電風扇、冷氣機和衛浴設備。在這裏度過的第一個晚上非常舒服,第二個晚上因為停電我們開窗,結果被蚊子叮咬得睡不著,輾轉至電流恢復後關窗開冷氣才能夠睡下去。客棧後門就是河流,我們可以打開後門出去河邊散步。夜幕後河邊的小酒吧紛紛開店,我們喜歡在散步逛街後的晚間步行回客棧時在隔壁的小酒吧坐下喝一杯啤酒。對著夜光的河水聊天,看載滿遊客經過的游船。馬六甲河多年以後又再川流不息了。<br />
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在馬六甲的那幾天我們安步當車,遊走與市區附近的幾條街道。這也是馬六甲城市之小的方便,古城的舊街道舊建築多集中於此,隨意抬頭低頭就是一番風景。<br />
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我總覺得一座城市必須要有一家讓人回味的咖啡館,這大概是我某種一廂情願的錯覺。反正也不需要別人的認同,我的錯覺也許成就了你的邂逅。<br />
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幾乎所有的旅遊書都說去馬六甲要吃雞飯粒、satay celup、紅豆冰,幾乎所有人被問起馬六甲有什麼好吃時也會這麼說。這成了常識,常識於是變了成見。所以馬六甲都老字號雞飯粒、satay celup食店都大排長龍,店內擁擠,店外也擁擠。我們每次經過新中華雞飯店時都驚歎門外排隊的人龍,這也是風景了。我們只想花費合適的時間吃午餐,所以我們兩天下午都吃雲吞面,而清晨的咖啡時光都去MODs Cafe,晚餐則是 geographer cafe。<br />
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早已聽朋友們推薦MODS cafe,這回親自去喝,果然名不虛傳。黑咖啡和拿鐵都好喝,更理想的是我在門口張望,還沒推門而入時,有一張熟悉的臉孔開門冒出來打招呼。原來是熟絡的咖啡師朋友,我還不知道她跑去馬六甲的咖啡館工作了。咖啡館的另一個咖啡師也是彼此耳聞已久,大家都有共同的朋友,所以很快就聊開了。在陌生的城市裏總能夠在咖啡館找到熟悉和親切感,不管是人還是味道。<br />
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若說歷史,自然要去看看AFormosa城堡的遺跡。<br />
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最後,買了一些紀念品給自己,是為旅行的物質收獲。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-36147788416507998012014-03-31T22:11:00.004+08:002014-03-31T22:12:31.822+08:00Quarter End - 閱讀總結三月尾通常是清算的季節。公司的年度會計,個人的所得稅呈報。我的規律生活真要清算些什麼的話,除了日常消費的銀額累計,大概就是讀了多少本書。年初發願要把一年讀過的書本記錄下,所幸履行至今(反正也不是什麼大數目),翻開記錄一目了然。2014年的第一季我讀了22本書半。小說居多,而且是日本作家的小說。<br />
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<ol>
<li>郝明義 -《越讀者》</li>
<li>吉田修一 -《平成猿蟹合戰圖》</li>
<li>小路幸也 -《東京下町古書店 vol 1》</li>
<li>慕容無言 -《楊無敵》</li>
<li>淺田次郎 -《穿越時空。地下鐵》</li>
<li>森博嗣 -《全部成為F》</li>
<li>Brian W. Fitzpatrick, Ben Collins-Sussman-《Team Geek:A Software Developer's Guide to Working Well With Others》</li>
<li>劉慈欣 -《流浪地球》</li>
<li>東野圭吾 -《忘憂雜貨店》</li>
<li>罔田哲 -《明治洋食始末》</li>
<li>John Mauldin , Jonathan Tepper-《End Game:終結大債時代》</li>
<li>張草 -《孛星誌》</li>
<li>吉田修一 - 《公園生活》</li>
<li>Gareth Malone -《古典音樂的不古典講堂》</li>
<li>李德偉,顧煜,王海平,徐立 -《大數據浪潮》</li>
<li>高野和明 -《種族滅絕》</li>
<li>三浦紫苑 -《神去村》</li>
<li>石田衣良 -《龍淚》</li>
<li>石田衣良 -《尊嚴》</li>
<li>Ian McEwan -《太陽能》</li>
<li>恆川光太郎 -《夜市》</li>
<li>何偉 -《奇石》(目前讀著)</li>
</ol>
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最快讀完的是石田衣良的兩本書,大概是一個週末裏加起來不到一天的閱讀時間。這兩本是他的“池袋西口公園系列”裏第9和10,我追讀這系列作品好幾年了,自然不會錯過。裏頭是一貫的輕快口氣披露日本社會某一階層的生活,一點關懷,一點自嘲,不痛不癢。彷彿連續劇,看了一集,不知不覺又看下第二集,又不知不覺看到最後一頁。不沈重不耗費腦力,適合搭配咖啡的午後輕鬆時光。<br />
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最一氣呵成讀完不記得花了多少時間的是《種族滅絕》,《楊無敵》。高野和明的小說和一般日本作家不一樣,他更接近 micheal crichton,把高科技題材放入冒險故事裡,節奏緊張,情節轉折,故事背後透露的意圖發人深省。《楊無敵》是某武俠小說比賽的得獎小說,作者慕容無言我之前沒聽說過。小說雖屬武俠,故事背景卻是民初,裏頭的武術真實無比,沒有飛簷走壁沒有降龍十八掌。小說裡呈現的江湖和我心目中的江湖大不相同,武術高手在現代武器前依舊可以驕傲,卻俯首與強權和生活的壓力之下,唏噓又無奈。初看之下此部小說的武俠風格類似徐皓峰(《道士下山》的作者,電影《一代宗師》的編劇,電影《倭寇的蹤跡》導演),再看下去會發覺作者的世故和大智若愚相當精妙,對白裏處處警句。<br />
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還有一本一氣呵成讀完不過省略的一些章節的是《大數據浪潮》。買下這本書是因為自己對大數據的興趣,之前讀過《Big Data: A Revolution That Will Transform How We Live, Work, and Think 》是美國的觀點,想說看看中國人對大數據的觀點。此書只需讀前半部就好,其中對大數據和中華古文化的哲學的連接頗有意思。後半本的大數據應用案例好像交功課的論文,我跳過不讀。<br />
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讀最久的大概是《明治洋食始末》,這本也像論文,說日本洋食的起源和發展,可說是本歷史書。硬著頭皮啃完只因為愛吃日式豬排飯,想知道這麼一道美食來自哪裡,經過怎麼樣的演化才到如今的樣子。foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-91170767496236630542014-03-24T21:29:00.002+08:002014-03-24T21:30:02.093+08:00Rimbun Dahan 有個藝術展<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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這次展出的是澳洲雕塑和裝置藝術家 Claire Healy 和 Sean Cordeiro 的作品。主題爲Habitat,字面上說的是生態環境,骨子裡說的是生活方式。是的我們城市人現代人所謂文明人的生活,曾經何時變成了消費的產品。居家環境可以在IKEA消費打造,個人品味則在各類品牌間消費得來,夏天裏要吃秋收的蔬果,坐在本地茶園的餐廳裡點一杯巴西的咖啡。這樣的Habitat 叫做城市生態,可不可以良好的自我循環則是另一則故事了。回到藝術展,藝術家用Lego積木環繞IKEA傢俱打造出企鵝、鹿、蛇之類的生物,邏輯上亂七八糟,但視覺上新鮮有趣,寓意幽默,可以發人深省可以一笑而過。這樣的展覽適合安排半個週末當作野餐,只不過食物換成心靈上的糧食。<br />
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逛了藝術展後可以信步走到Rimbun Dahan另一頭的高腳木屋去逛逛,脫下鞋子踩上木板梯階,如果天氣炎熱,可以在屋內稍微體驗熱帶民居的片刻日常。如果下雨,也許靠著窗沿張望落下的雨滴會挺寫意。是我的話,我會坐在高腳木屋下的藤椅翻開一本小說,在偶爾吹過的微風裏閱讀。誰說大熱天非得往冷氣商場裏頭鑽。<br />
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p.s.<br />
<a href="http://www.rimbundahan.org/home.html" target="_blank">19TH RIMBUN DAHAN RESIDENCY EXHIBITION</a><br />
Weekends: 10am to 6pm, from 16 to 30 March 2014<br />
Monday to Friday: by appointment <br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-46864976391459255082014-03-22T23:19:00.001+08:002014-03-22T23:21:49.333+08:00三隻小鳥<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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這不是童話或寓言,也沒有飛禽公園的意味。是一家坐落在Sentul D7的咖啡館,Three Little Birds。城中的咖啡愛好者大概不會對此陌生,因此家咖啡館是Artisan Roast 幕後推手的另一個手筆,咖啡館隔壁是倉庫,落地玻璃窗望進去盡是烘培好的一袋袋新鮮咖啡豆,和堆滿地裝滿咖啡生豆的麻包袋。在隔壁則是烘培房,一臺彷如巨大機器的烘培機是所有視線的焦點。<br />
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咖啡館週邊環境清幽,彷彿鬧市裡的清涼所在。兩面牆壁由落地玻璃構成,採光良好,室內室外連成一氣,安靜的時候彷彿可以聽見咖啡彼此說話的聲音。說到咖啡,菜單上的咖啡選擇簡單實際:黑或白,黑咖啡可以是long black 可以是手工咖啡,多用 V60 或 kalita wave 沖泡。白的是加了牛奶的咖啡,cappuccino或latte。外加一些蛋糕,三明治之類的簡單食物。<br />
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這裡的long black特別好喝,入口明亮,又有層次感的變化,一改我對long black 是單調口感的觀點。後來每次和朋友到訪我們都點一杯long black 和一杯手沖咖啡,花一些時間細細瀏覽機器技藝和手工技藝各自打造出來的味覺地圖,異曲同工,好咖啡終歸只需要一個感想。好喝足矣。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-7918268843909948252014-03-15T21:12:00.003+08:002014-03-15T21:14:42.639+08:00回到最初的相機<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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去年在臺灣旅行時買了當時剛出版的<a href="http://www.books.com.tw/products/0010611265" target="_blank">《大人的科學:35mm雙眼相機》</a>,還有75折。回到馬來西亞不久後在書局看見其影蹤,折扣前的價位幾乎多了一倍,一點都不親切。某個寫意的午後我鼓起勁拆開包裝,把裝配手冊瀏覽一遍後開始動手組裝相機。結果花了3個小時,而手冊上注明的2個小時大概說明了我的手拙。其實組裝并不複雜,只是快門那個部分需要十分小心,裝不好的話就無法順利拍照。<br />
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一直等到過年回家才有機會把菲林放進去實際拍攝。過程隨意也有點戰戰兢兢,因為相機太原始,無法選擇光圈無法調整快門,唯一的調整是把鏡頭內的光圈片卸下或裝上,光圈會從F11變成F6,快門則固定在1/125。拍攝時得手動卷片,一不小心就是多重曝光。一直拍到無法手動卷片以為拍完36張了,底片送去沖洗後才知道原來是24張,拍了2卷36張的底片都只能拍出24張,到現在還摸不著頭腦。<br />
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能夠自己組裝一臺相機很好玩,輕巧的帶出去拍攝不其然有種隨意感。拍出來的相片品質當然不能和慣用的數碼相機相比,可是膠片感和無可名狀的模糊感很有味道,像真實的回憶不太清晰但觸動情緒。我記得拍攝朋友時他們懷疑的眼神以為我在玩鬧,快門的喀嚓聲驚動了笑容,時光從波狀坍塌成粒子,量子物理學把這片刻叫做“波函數坍塌”,我卻說這是瞬間的永恆是日常。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-54494929773860547522014-01-30T15:06:00.000+08:002014-01-30T15:07:02.739+08:00回家的傳統<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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每次過年前夕大家寒喧時總圍繞著甚麼時候回鄉過年,幾點出發好避開大道的塞車時段,之類的話題。這次弟弟和我比平常上班時早一點開車出門,清晨六點四十五分,往常十分擁擠的道路還在甦醒當中,咱們一路順暢,出了城市進入大道。在漸漸變亮的天色中飛馳,曙光清新,朝霞亮麗。明明就是平時經過的單調景色,在回家過年的心情以及清晨好天氣的襯托下,竟是一路風光明媚,下了大道轉入鄉間小路,一直到家門口。好像公路旅行。<br />
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說起公路,前幾天看過青元導演的《一路有你》,開頭是金馬崙的茶園晨景,爾後主角騎著摩哆車沿著公路南下北上,一路上風景明媚。那是電影訴說的人情之外最美的片段,過年期間,我們不妨這片土地上發生的種種烏煙瘴氣裡走出來,遁入私密的電影院空間裡和《一路有你》走一趟風光明媚的旅程。<br />
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今天除夕,媽媽一大早就在廚房張羅拜祭祖先的食物。這麼多年來她一手包辦我們一家大笑的伙食,活著的死去的,她在家這塊領域裡給了我們風光明媚的飲食盛筵,她是我們這輩子的總鋪師。台灣有一部叫做《總鋪師》的電影十分好看,說的是辦桌傳統。魔幻寫實的手法卻拍出異常溫情的緬懷,傳統的消失不因為菜譜的失傳,不因為行業的沒落。全都是因為人心,辦桌的初衷是分享喜事,總鋪師最大的收穫是滿足每一張嘴巴的味蕾。所以電影裡的前輩對尋找古早味的年輕總鋪師說妳要找回的是古早心。所以《一路有你》的洋人女婿最後若有所悟:原來華人傳統的古板面目背後保存的是一份人情,是親人間的聯繫。傳統是最初的古早心。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-33746659717966765492013-12-11T21:51:00.002+08:002013-12-11T21:51:49.534+08:00台灣小巡禮-生活的所在-宜蘭篇<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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當初在某本台灣雜誌的民宿專題裡看見這棟房子的照片,鄉野稻田間的獨棟平房,安靜,不張揚,裡頭住著一家人的生活。於是就一個人去感受擁有一家人的生活的房子。那是壯圍張宅,距離宜蘭市區大約15分鐘的機車路程,周圍是稻田,視野開闊。當初由張姓主人委託台灣知名建築師設計打造,盡善盡美,前後花了6年時間才把房子蓋好。如今十多年過去,張家兒女長成,離鄉深造或工作,兩老決定把和家人共同生活過的空間拿出來做民宿,讓有心人來體驗他們喜愛並實際生活過的空間。參與房子建築過程的友人姊姊告訴我說她每次去到張宅都深感歡喜,也許還有些欣慰。因為那房子和當初一個模樣,裡頭的生活空間和動線都沒甚麼改變。這大概是建築師和房子主人最理想的合作結果了。<br />
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於是我來到,蜻蜓點水般住了一晚。腦海裡冒出《我們這裡還有魚》的歌詞:找個池塘蓋間平房忘掉哀傷,給自己一個有魚的地方。這間平房大概就是張宅這樣子的了,而且很巧的,張宅外有小池塘,魚在裡邊遊。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-8567502986000221542013-12-08T13:07:00.005+08:002013-12-08T13:08:17.422+08:00台灣小巡禮-生活的所在-台南篇<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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忘了從哪裡聽說,去臺南就要住老房子。於是選了一家算是老房子改造而成的民宿-木子。民宿是一棟瘦瘦高高的四層樓房子,底樓為展場,擺放手作雜貨之類的,開放給大眾進來參觀選購。二樓以上為民宿,每層樓各有一間房,四樓上有個後來加蓋的閣樓,也有一間舖上榻榻米的房間。我選了閣樓,因為閣樓的房間外有一個露臺,露臺上有張木凳子,適合坐在上頭喝啤酒眺望遠景。木子每一層樓的房間各有特色,房間外有小客廳,也許應該在那邊住3、4個晚上,在不同樓層各住一晚,看看環境帶給生活感的不同流速。民宿本身精采之外,民宿所在的神農街正是臺南近年來流行的旅遊舊街區,相當於馬來西亞檳城的喬治市。在臺南的第一個晚上我坐在老房子的太古pub二樓騎樓喝啤酒看樓下街道上來往不絕的遊客,想到的其實就是檳城喬治市老街區。時空如果交錯,喝完那瓶啤酒後我大概會散步到碼頭搭最後一班渡輪離開。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-11828088399521110352013-11-30T21:53:00.001+08:002013-11-30T22:15:38.871+08:00台灣小巡禮-生活的所在-台中篇<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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喜歡住民宿的最大誘因是民宿充滿生活的味道,而且處處透露出主人的品味。生活的日常流瀉在居家空間的每一個小細節,像樂譜的音符一小節一小節組成節奏。我喜歡體驗這樣子的節奏,那是主人獨特的生活片面。我知足於一些片面,層層攤開或摺疊,加入自己的想像。有些意念在碰撞,有些細節被參考,更多的是對生活美感的感受。居住在一份溫暖而且持續發展的美感裡頭,在所有驚艷和探索還來不及消逝之前離開,我想我對這樣子的意猶未盡深深著迷。<br />
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我在台中三天的生活所在是一家叫做旅人之森的民宿。民宿樓下是展覽室,是主人生活的空間,二樓和三樓的房間開放給旅人留宿。民宿就在民宅林立的街道上,屬台中市區裡,拐兩個街角就到主要街道,鬧中取靜。所以我在台中三天的遊逛都以雙腳代步,偶爾搭搭公車。<br />
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旅人之森是棟三層樓的民宅,一樓有一個挑高的空間,望上去就是二樓的廊道。而那個走廊就擺上靠牆書櫃設計成閱讀空間,我喜歡坐在閱讀躺椅上讀小說,視線可以穿過走廊旁的玻璃隔間直達底樓,光線也是,營造出通透的空間感。說起來這次旅行我所度過的閱讀時光幾乎都是在旅人之森時,因為這裡有村上春樹的《沒有色彩的多崎作和他的巡禮之年》,我在出發到台灣之前讀了三份一,沒想到來到台灣竟然有這個機緣能夠接下去讀完。把自己的日常生活某部份帶來民宿主人的生活空間裡,坐在一張陌生的躺椅捧著別人的同一本書,窗口透出台灣的秋日光線。彷彿夢和現實的交錯,旅人來到一座陌生的森林,他會往有燈光的方向走去。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-19597412153628505432013-09-29T19:31:00.002+08:002013-09-29T19:33:02.218+08:00我的世界只有你的咖啡 - 豆原二號<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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彷彿祕密基地,我們躲在一間典型的新村板屋裡喝咖啡。只是喝咖啡,黑咖啡,也許會有人點一份蛋糕。沒有人大聲喧譁,沒有人急著喝完咖啡。外頭的世界暫時和我無關,深呼吸,喝杯水。“唯有讓自己的心沈澱下來才能品嚐咖啡裡豐富的味道版圖”,咖啡師如是說。於是咖啡也成了一種道,所有讓人專注的技藝都是道。咖啡師說,當我煮著你這一杯咖啡的時候,我的世界只有你的咖啡。我因此動容,做為一個喝咖啡的人,當我喝著你煮給我的咖啡時,我的世界也只有你的咖啡。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-5759278100677680662013-09-22T22:54:00.001+08:002013-09-22T22:54:47.713+08:00閱讀筆記 - 《我是漫畫大王》和《逆向誘拐》<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
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近來常讀日本推理小說,依坂幸太郎和東野貴吾都是心頭所愛。前幾天去書局例行遊逛,發覺臺灣 2013《島田莊司推理小說獎》的得獎作品新鮮出爐,而且是兩本小說並列首獎。看多了翻譯的日本推理小說,故事裡頭的日本生活場景雖然不再陌生,裡頭的文化風俗差異還是和我身在的現實有著顯著落差。不如這回讀讀中文世界土生土長的推理小說,至少人物的生活場景以及對話方式會和自己稍微接近。大約速讀了兩本首獎作品的簡介,不好決定該買哪一本,於是兩本都買下,反正周休有兩天,剛好搭配。<br />
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先讀《我是漫畫大王》。除了故事開頭有一個大學研究生臨出門前和鄰居剛離家出走回來的太太寒喧,待得太太打開家門發現客廳裡丈夫躺在血泊中,而唯一的孩子被反鎖在沒有窗戶的房間內,這一點有推理小說的勢頭之外,故事就轉入倒敘。倒敘也不直來直往,而是非常技巧性的敘述同一個人的兩種視角,一個是父親,一個是孩子,兩種視角最後巧妙重疊,兇手是誰也無關要緊了,反正死者才是罪魁禍首。小說運用心理學解釋主角的失常行為,裡頭有所謂的童年陰影。老實說故事並不引人入勝,雖然結局兩種視角和疊成一時謎底自然而然揭曉這一招非常巧妙,可是前情的鋪陳有意混淆讀者視線,我讀到有些沉悶,覺得節奏感有銜接不到的地方,是一部還好但不一定要讀的小說。<br />
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第二本《逆向誘拐》比較合我胃口。小說把現代金融概念運用社交網路科技發展出來的犯罪手法堪稱高明。“金字塔”手法的錢滾錢巧妙套用在“綁架資料”的犯罪裡,想要追查真正的嫌犯不得不大費周章。故事更精彩的地方在於犯罪不只是檯面上,也即是主情節敘述的部份。更大的犯罪在情節以外,一直到故事尾聲才透露出來。讀者如我不禁大呼高明,原來所有的高科技網路概念、金融概念等等不過是幌子,底子下還是傳統的犯罪行為。真要說這部小說涉及什麼現代社會觀念的話,也許是小說嫌犯的犯罪動機,正如有人會自費響應面子書上號召的快閃活動,只因覺得有趣。姑且不論小說的推理佈局如何巧妙如何“高科技”,其中花了不少篇幅試圖讓讀者明白某些網路科技和金融產品的概念,這部份難免破壞了故事的節奏感。不過作者也無法不解釋,要不然故事裡的犯罪手法之高明就無法讓讀者明白了。讀這本小說還有一個好處:順便了解幾年前造成金融風暴的“衍生性金融產品”、次級貸款等到底是甚麼東西。foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-13575342510780432602013-09-21T23:07:00.002+08:002013-09-21T23:08:12.498+08:00出差到荷蘭 - 家居的櫥窗<div class="separator" style="text-align: center;">
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剛抵達荷蘭時,在阿姆斯特丹遊街當兒就發覺運河旁的樓宇如果有陽臺的話,一定會用鮮花裝飾的漂漂亮亮。去到小鎮阿培爾頓,樓宇多數擁有寬闊陽臺,佈置得彷彿小小客廳,搭配欣欣向榮的鮮花綠葉,總讓騎著自行車經過的我覺得賞心悅目。住了幾天下來,發覺小鎮的獨棟民宅更加別緻,他們家面向街道的窗口彷彿商店櫥窗,透露出屋子主人的品味。某天傍晚我在酒店附近的住宅區散步,拍攝民居窗口的精緻擺設。從簡單的一兩盆鮮花到各種大大小小的擺設品,我不禁想像家家戶戶都花心思佈置窗口,為望過來的行人準備一道漂亮的小風景。所以散步也變得很愉悅,經過別緻的窗口時會駐足欣賞一番,偶爾屋子裡頭透出昏黃燈光,餐桌上人影晃動,一天中的家庭聚餐時光。這是小鎮最溫暖的風景線。</div>
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-22244298715792653592013-09-11T22:58:00.000+08:002013-09-11T22:58:43.330+08:00出差到荷蘭-小鎮很安靜<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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阿培爾頓是個幽雅的小鎮,我下榻的酒店在小鎮舊時候的驛道旁,街道有名Loolan,是阿培爾頓最古老也最主要的街道。街道一端是荷蘭王室17世紀的行宮,裡頭有美麗的庭園,外頭有寬闊的樹林和草地。如今是博物館,展示荷蘭橙色皇室的居家狀況。另一端是一座大教堂,華麗莊嚴,又帶些滄桑,是一棟每次經過都會抬頭仰望的建築。如今街道不再是驛站,兩旁長滿高大的樹木,夏天時青蔥綠意盈然,樹蔭下的自行車道和行人道常常讓人忍不住想散步,從街頭走到街尾,也許兜進去皇宮大門外的樹林轉一圈。這樣子散步到夜幕,Loolan 42號是一家叫做De Bon Vivant 的餐廳,非常適合夏天夜晚在戶外的露天座位點一杯荷蘭Palm啤酒和當季的主菜。<br />
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越過街道盡頭的大教堂,會經過小鎮的音樂廳,那裡的燈火別有意境,我每次經過時都興起一股如果能夠去聽一場音樂會該會多美好的念頭。再往前走是小鎮的中央區,也是商店街,可說是小鎮最熱鬧的地區。可是商店街裡的店鋪都在五點關門,下班後去到總是有點冷清,剩下餐廳和酒廊集中的幾個地點散發喧鬧的氣息。我們的晚餐多數在這一帶解決,每天隨意逛逛,再選一家看起來不錯的進去用餐。如果出差一個月的話,大概能夠嚐遍那一帶所有的餐廳。<br />
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吃了晚餐,還有興致的話可以去酒廊喝杯啤酒聊聊天。不過夏天的夜晚姍姍來遲,天色轉暗時已是夜晚九點,剛抵達那幾天由於時差我們在九點已是昏昏欲睡,只想回到酒店房間睡覺。就算時差不再,吃過晚餐的空檔也沒甚麼活動,小鎮靜悄悄的,街道旁的住家透露溫暖燈火,餐廳露天座有三三兩兩的人潮。馬路上的車輛不多,自行車的小巧車燈緩緩搖搖晃晃,好像小鎮即將入睡的節奏。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-76908858671526459752013-09-10T22:37:00.002+08:002013-09-11T21:50:33.432+08:00出差到荷蘭-尖叫的咖啡<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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在小鎮阿培爾頓上班的那段日子只喝酒店的早餐黑咖啡,或者是公司裡自動意式咖啡機用手指按一下等個三十秒就會流出來的黑咖啡。一直忍耐到回國前一天去到阿姆斯特丹,和去贊斯堡(Zaanes Schans)看風車的同伴分頭行事。我沿著運河穿梭大街小巷去尋找會尖叫的咖啡館,聽到尖叫聲時也聞到咖啡香。推門而入見到熟悉的意式咖啡機,值班的女孩告訴我還有十分鐘就打烊了。沒關係,我原本就只想找一家講究咖啡的咖啡館,即便是沒機會坐下好好品嚐也沒關係。因為我會點一杯expresso,女孩微笑轉過身去煮咖啡,我在吧臺前張望,看看擺在吧臺上售賣的咖啡豆看看這家狹長空間的小小咖啡館如何尖叫。我並沒有尖叫,站在吧臺前兩口喝完expresso後鬆了一口氣,心裡湧起一股總算喝到好喝咖啡的不枉此行感。意猶未盡再點了杯piccolo latte,也是三兩口喝完,一解壓抑在小鎮的咖啡癮,於是滿足走出咖啡館。<br />
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繼續往前走出中央區,進入Jordan區,往博物館區的方向邊走邊拍照。我走到了稍微遠離大街,算是比較靜僻的Head Roaster 咖啡館。這家咖啡館和另外的傢具店、古物店等共用一個店面,所以完全沒有咖啡館的樣子,我在門外觀望了好一陣子,確認裡頭有咖啡機,有咖啡菜單的黑板,有客人坐在看起來是二手傢具的桌椅,才欣然進入。咖啡館開到7點,我總算可以好好坐下,於是點了杯適合慢慢喝的黑咖啡,Ethopia Shakiso。店裡有最近幾期的Kinfolk雜誌,正好用來配咖啡。爾後意猶未盡,續了杯flat white。臨走前買了包剛烘培好的El Salvador 咖啡豆,和咖啡師們聊了一會兒,咖啡是比英文還好用的國際語言。<br />
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每個城市都有精彩的咖啡館,幸好阿姆斯特丹也不例外。<br />
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<br />foxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12700726347936621367noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10362103.post-5927590951932132442013-09-09T22:43:00.001+08:002013-09-09T22:44:26.786+08:00出差到荷蘭-一座城市的悠閒感在於能夠步行的距離<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
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阿姆斯特丹也適合步行,特別是走走停停的遊逛。無他,是那裡的大街小巷被運河環繞得太明媚,被歷史洗刷得太有骨氣。每一個街角都有可以駐足欣賞的風景、有一兩家賞心悅目的小店;偶爾坐在隨處可見的長椅上,望著阿姆斯特丹來往不絕的旅人們像流逝的時光漸漸淡去。夏天的尾巴有涼涼的風掃過陽光下的露天咖啡座,人們交談甚歡。運河裡不時有船經過,自行車的鈴聲此起彼落,行人們停下腳步讓行。忽然一陣喧鬧,前方的拱橋上有一群西裝筆挺的年輕人合力抱起一個戴著兔子耳朵的人,一邊唱著我聽不懂的歌把他拋入運河裡,感覺就像是一場婚禮的玩鬧。繼續往前走,經過一道道運河,風景緩緩融化,心底的悠閒感覺愈發膨脹,開始留意經過的小店有沒有發出尖叫的咖啡館,那是喝咖啡的好時光,是喝好咖啡的時光。我不禁懷疑,給我悠閒感的到底是一座城市,還是這座城市的悠閒感,其實是我賦予的。<br />
也許,悠閒感是走路慢慢走出來的。
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